Mafashoni mlengi Elsa Schiaparelli. Wambiri, ntchito Elsa Schiaparelli

Today dzina la mkazi uyu sizikumveka nthawi zambiri. Only ndi anthu ochepa nawo mmaonekedwe, amadziwa ichi Elsa Schiaparelli. Mu zaka 20-30 ya atumwi, dzina la wotchuka mbuye wa Haute Couture sanasiye milomo ya akazi European. Aliyense Kutolere mlengi linachititsa chilengedwe mtima komanso kuzizwa.

wamng'ono Elsa

Mu makolo yachifumu Corsini, kuti suli kutali ndi likulu la dziko la Italy - Rome, anabadwa nyenyezi tsogolo la mafashoni. Chakhumi tsiku la September, 1890 ku banja la mkulu wa Royal Library of Italy munali msungwana. Makolo anaganiza kuti aitane Elsa ake. Kuyambira ali mwana mtsikanayu ankakhala ndi chikondi ndi chisamaliro cha makolo awo.

Pamene Elsa Schiaparelli wamkulu, mumaona ankakonda madona achichepere anali kuonerera mafanizo buku mu laibulale bambo ake. mabuku onse m'banja Schiaparelli unachita chachikulu. Atate nthawi zonse zake ufulu anakhala mabuku Numismatic, pokhala wokhometsa mozama ndalama wakale. Malinga ndi malipoti zosatsimikiza, iye anali ulemu kugawana ndalama yekha mfumu ya Italy.

Elsa Schiaparelli: yonena ndi makolo mizu

Mayi Elsa anabadwa mu Melita, agogo ake anatumizidwa ku UK Kazembe. Mu banja, kwambiri umunthu chidwi amene anapanga osankhika a nthawi. Agogo a nyenyezi tsogolo la dziko mafashoni kupyola mu mzere akuchikazi, kusiya ana asanu anapita ku Iguputo kukhazikitsa limasonyeza malonda ndi industrialists m'deralo.

Posapita nthawi, chabwino talente wonyenga wa mitima akazi, iye anakwatira mwana wa munthu wamalonda wolemera m'deralo ndipo analimbikitsidwa ndi mlangizi wa mfumu ya Iguputo. Wotchuka wa ku Italy zakuthambo Dzhovanni Virdzhinio Schiaparelli nkhani amalume, m'bale wa bambo Elsa ali. Bakuman ali kuti, kupanga kunja Mole patsaya mwana wa anakonza mu mawonekedwe a Great chimbalangondo, iye ankaona kuti ndi chizindikiro chabwino ndipo ananeneratu waukulu mtsikana m'tsogolo. Komabe, Elsa Schiaparelli (onani chithunzi. Mmunsimu) sali anasankha kukongola, kodi moyo chisoni.

Chiyambi cha moyo wamkulu

Kusiya pafupifupi mwana wamkazi, mtsikana anakulira mwamphamvu. Atate sanalole wamng'ono Elsa frills iliyonse. Knights, amene akhala akupezeka kuti wachinyamata wa ku Italy, nthawi yomweyo kukanidwa ndi bambo ake. usperdie wanga wonse iye anali kuganizira maphunziro awo.

Only mu 1914, Elsa anatha kumasuka ku ukapolo wa mayi ake. Pa kuyitana kwa mnzake wakale Elsa Schiaparelli choyamba masamba kunyumba ya bambo ake, ndipo anatumizidwa ku London, kumene iye anapereka aboma. Pa njira ntchito ina iye anapanga amasiya likulu French, kumene anakumana mnzakeyu ku koleji, amene anaitanidwa achinyamata Italiya ku mpira.

Chifukwa cha kusowa ndalama mtsikana mopupuluma anamanga ndi kavalidwe madzulo. Ndi mdima buluu kavalidwe krepdeshinovomu, anagula mu zomera Lafayette, iye zikumangidwa chidutswa cha silika lalanje, ndipo pamutu pake wamanga chipika yosavuta. Nthawi zambiri stitching wa zovala, kotero kuti ziwalo zonse za zovala adam'yang'anitsa ndi zikhomo.

Wamatama Italy mtsikana chovala anachititsa chidwi chenicheni kwa anthu wamba. Atangochoka kuzungulira kotsatira wa Waltz ndi zonse zoikika yowoneka anabalalika pansi. Iye anasiya chipani kulira pansi pa wodabwa alendo kuyang'anitsitsa tchuthi.

London moyo wa mlengi tsogolo

Akufika likulu la Great Britain, Elsa Schiaparelli ananyamula ntchito yake aboma. mavuto makamaka polera ana adziwe mtsikana chiyani osadzuka Choncho, iwo unali nazo zochuluka za nthawi ya moyo.

Minibasi mu Europe panthawi imeneyo anali kuphunzira Theosophy, zamatsenga gulu lachinsinsi chidziwitso cha Mulungu. Elsa anasankha kukhala ndi mafashoni ndi nkhani ya Chiwerengero William de A Wendt de A Kerlora. Pambuyo pa ulendo wina ku nkhani holo pakati pa lecturer ndi mtsikana ali mu kutsutsana thematic.

Kukambirana chinakhalapo mpaka m'mawa, kenako iwo wopalidwa ubwenzi. Only atakwatira mwana anadziwitsa makolo ake za ukwati.

moyo Banja akazi ku Rome

Kuti banjali anakonza moyo wawo limodzi lendi nyumba kunja kwa mzinda wa London. Kuyambira masiku oyambirira a m'banja wachita zalephera. umoyo nkhalango mwamuna wake kulibe, ndi zina banjali linasamukira ku Nice, kumene makolo ake anali kukhala. Kuyesa mwanjira kusintha zinthu chuma, Elsa SIAC yekha amapita ku Monte Carlo kuyesa mwayi awo pa wobiriwira baize juga m'deralo. Tikaonanso wosauka, mkazi wachiroma akapanga lonjezo salinso titsatire choncho. Kuyembekezera kusintha chinachake mu moyo wake, banja kusankha kupita kutsidya kwa nyanja.

Moyo ku New York anali wosiyana alipidwa njira Loona za moyo. William Inabuka nyanja ya zosangalatsa. Kunena ndi akazi olemera American, amene anali Aysedora Dunkan, anakakamizika kuiwala mkazi cholinga cha zawo ulendo ku America. Mangawa kwa malawi hotelo idaphuka pamodzi mwezi uliwonse likadutsa, koma sankasamala. Iye anapitiriza carouse mu odyerako alendo osankhika, kupereka operekera zakudya wopatsa kwenikweni. mwamuna anaonekera m'nyumba kuchepa, ndi uthenga kuti Elsa amadikirira mwana, iye anakumana ndi osalabadira.

Choncho mtima zitsulo

Yvonne - monga mayi wina dzina lake mwana wake. Kubwera kunyumba kuchokera ku chipatala, Elsa anakakamizika kufunafuna malo ogona atsopano iyeyo ndi mwana wake wakhanda. Ndi nthawi mwini hotelo, komwe ankakhala ndi William, osauka iwo chipinda ngongole. Mkazi alibe chidwi ndi moyo wa mwana wawo, zaka sikisi, munthu adzafa pansi mawilo a galimoto, wokhala stupor aledzera.

Yvonne anapanga njira yoyamba mtanga Ufumuyo moto kuthawa. Kagulu kakang'ono chipinda mu hotelo wotchipa ndi pamwamba pa msonga ya kapangidwe mapulani. Izi zikachitika, mayi anga ndi mnyamata mwana wamkazi wa zaka ziwiri ndi moyo. Elsa ntchito wosamvetseka kudyetsa mwana ndi kulipira malawi. Pamene iye anali zaka zisanu ndi mayi ake anapeza mwana wake zobwera gait.

Mutapita kwa dokotala anapezeka - infantile ziwalo. Mosimidwa, mlengi tsogolo Elsa Schiaparelli iri yofulumira dokotala wina ndi mzake m'chiyembekezo kuthandiza mwana wake. Mu chipatala, mkazi anakumana Gabrielle Picabia, mkazi wa French umboni wojambula F. Picabia. Elsa SIAC mkazi anapereka kugulitsa masewera collectible zovala Paris.

Bwererani ku France

Potsatira malangizo a madotolo kubwera mafashoni mlengi Elsa Schiaparelli akubwerera ku France komwe wakonza mwana wake wamkazi ku sukulu yogonera komweko ana ndi matenda a dongosolo minofu ndi mafupa mu Lausanne. Kulowa dziko mafashoni Elsa anathandiza choncho. Pa phwando, anakumana ndi mkazi chiyambi Chiameniya mu juzi kaso, osokedwa pamanja. Mwa kulamula diresi ndekha ndipo anatuluka mu kuwala, Elsa chidwi Frenchwomen.

Choncho, posachedwapa kunja kwa Palestina Chiameniya adayamba kumumasula Elsa osokedwa zovala zogulitsa kwa fashionistas m'deralo. Potengera bwino, Elsa anayamba kuganiza za ziwembu zawo mafashoni. Kukhala luso mu zojambula, tsogolo rents mlengi chapamwamba mu msewu wa World, 4, kumene chizindikiro "Elsa Schiaparelli" amapezeka posachedwapa. Kutolere zovala kuchokera ku fashoni watsopano wa Paris zatchuka kwambiri mwa akazi likulu a.

Dongosolo la zochitika za m'tsogolo

• 1930. Lingaliro la kulenga silhouettes ndi zinthu yakale yoyendera draperies ndi chiuno kwambiri.
• 1935. Monga mlendo wolemekezeka amatsegula French mafashoni mlengi nyumba mu Moscow.
• 1935. Inayambira zapamwamba awo mu Paris.
• 1936. M'dziko mafashoni yafala mtundu pinki fuchsia, zomwe zili lingaliro la Schiaparelli.
• 1938. Mu Paris, chopereka ogwirizana ndi mutu wa masewera aja, kumene zinthu zonse kukongoletsa anali nsalu ndi mikanda galasi.

Mu chaka chomwecho Ine ndinabadwa tandem zodabwitsa - Salvador Dali ndi Elsa Schiaparelli. Kuvala ndi lobusitara flavored ndi parsley, analenga furore mu dziko mafashoni. Pambuyo kuonetsa chinthu uyu ali Bessie Wallis Simpson, Duchess a Windsor.

• 1940. Mlengi masamba wotanganidwa Paris ndipo anasamuka ku United States.
• 1946. Atabwerera ku Europe Schiaparelli ndi kukulozani malire atsopano wa mafuta "Sun Mfumu." Kamangidwe botolo wapangidwa zochokera zina zachidule ndi akalekalefe bwenzi - Salvador Dali.
• 1947. Pa Olympus mafashoni dziko pali dzina latsopano - Christian Dior. Pakuti Elsa SIAC kubwera nthawi yovuta, pang'onopang'ono chidwi mumaganiza surrealist mmaonekedwe sakukhulupiriranso kufunika kwake.
• 1954. Elsa Schiaparelli akupereka chopereka ake atsopano ndi akulengeza kutseka kwa nyumba mafashoni.

Kuponda pansi kuchokera olankhulira pafupifupi zaka makumi awiri, Elsa mbamphedza zidzukulu ake - aakazi Yvonne - Marisa ndi Kwirirani. Dzitsitse nyumba Tunisia, Elsa SIAC zakale ndi buku, "Moyo wanga ndi ozunguza."

Elsa Schiaparelli: zochokera moyo m'mbuyomu

• "Pa mavuto mafashoni nthawi zonse choipitsitsa kumakhaladi."
• "Ngati mulibe kuona mabaibulo awo, kutanthauza kuti ali chilili."
• "Diresi alibe moyo wake womwe, ngati ndi chobvalidwa."
• "Mkazi ayenera kusankha zimbudzi zawo zokha kapena limodzi ndi munthu."
• "Ugule pang'ono bwino, ndipo kokha mtengo kwambiri."
• "Mkazi ayenera kulipira ngongole zawo".

Elsa Schiaparelli anafa November 13, 1973.