American climber Scott Fischer, amene anagonjetsa pamwamba pa Lhotse: yonena

Scott Fisher - climber, akale kale zaka 20 anadzionetsa katswiri woona mwa kugonjetsa nsonga phiri. Koma ambiri a iwo amadziwika tsoka pa Everest mu 1996, pamene masana anapha anthu 8 Maulendo atatu, kuphatikizapo Fischer yekha.

Yambani kukokera mapiri

Monga mwana ife ndimalota za ntchito yabwino amunamuna. Wokayenda pamwezi, firefighter, Oyang'anira pamadzi, woyendetsa, mkulu - n'zokhudza chiopsezo zina choncho yang'anani kotero chikondi mu maso a mwana. Scott Fischer pa 14 anadziwa kuti izo zikanadzakhala phiri climber. Patapita zaka ziwiri anatenga maphunziro mu kukwera miyala. Kenako sukulu ya sekondale ndi atsogoleri wakhala mmodzi wa Aphunzitsi abwino akatswiri pa mapiri. M'zaka zimenezi anali zimayesetsa kugonjetsa ya m'mapiri nsonga.

Mu 1982, ndi mkazi wake Jean, anasamukira ku Seattle. Apa ana anabadwa Fischer, Andy ndi Keti Rouz.

kugonjetsa Lhotse

Scott Fischer, mlingo wokweretsa wa climber, anakhala munthu woyamba American okwera climber, kugonjetsa pamwamba pa Lhotse, kutalika chachinayi waukulu.

"Kumwera pamwamba" (as eightthousanders anawamasulira) ili ku HimalayasI, kumalire a China ndi Nepal. Iwo agawidwa mfundo zitatu. Today nawayika maulendo angapo, koma anagonjetsa Lhotse ndi yodabwitsa kwambiri. Pochitika khoma South imatengedwa kukhala kovuta. Pangani zinangokhala analamula okwera Soviet mu 1990. anthu khumi ankagwira ntchito mogwirizana kuti akwere pamwamba akanakhoza kokha awiri a iwo.

"Mountain misala"

Ofotokoza akathyali, Scott Fischer mu 1984 anatsegula kampani yake kwa maulendo okwera. Poyamba ntchito chidwi pang'ono ndi okwera - chapakati moyo wake anali kukwera. kampaniyo kumuthandiza zimene iye amakonda. Kwa nthawi yaitali, "Mountain misala" anali pafupifupi osadziwika kuyenda kampani. Zonse zinasintha mu 90s, pamene anagonjetsa Everest linali loto wokondedwa la alendo wamba. Anakumana ya m'mapiri okwera anakhala atsogoleri m'munsili wokonzeka kukwera pamwamba ndalama. The ndondomeko ya malonda a Everest. Pali makampani, ndi mtengo wozungulira analonjeza bungwe kukwera pamwamba. Iwo analamulira membala yobereka maulendowa kumsasa m'munsi, kukonza ophunzira kwa chitunda ndi thandizo kudutsa. Chifukwa cha mwayi kuti akhale mmodzi wa agonjetsi la Everest Pofuna anaika limanena yaikulu - 50 kuti madola 65 chikwi. Pa nthawi yomweyo okonza Maulendo sanali tipambanedi - phiri sanathe mudzipereke.

ulendo Scott Fischer ku phiri la Everest. Chifukwa chipembedzo chake

The bwino Maulendo malonda okwera ena, kuphatikizapo Rob Hall, anakakamizika Fisher kuganizira njira za HimalayasI. Nthawi ina anauza woyang'anira Karen Dickinson, nkhaniyo malinga ndi nthawi. makasitomala ambiri amafuna kuti afike ku chimbuzi cha dziko. Scott Fischer, phiri la Everest kwa omwe sanali m'njira yovuta kwambiri, ndi nthawi kuti mozama za mmene ndi nthawi kusintha moyo. Ulendo ku HimalayasI amulola kuti maganizo awo ndi kusonyeza chimene chingathe kampani yake. Ngati zopambana chikanathandiza makasitomala atsopano Musalole kuyala ndalama zambiri chifukwa cha mwayi kuti akwere pamwamba pa phiri la Everest.

Poyerekeza ndi okwera ena, amene mayina awo anachokera kwa masamba a magazini, iye sanali zodziwika bwino. anthu ochepa mukudziwa amene Scott Fisher. Everest anamupatsa mwayi otchuka mu bwino maulendowa "Mountain misala". Chifukwa china chimene anapanga climber kupita ulendowu, anali kufuna kukonza chifaniziro chake. Iye anali ndi mbiri yakuti wolimba ndi wosasamala mkulu okwera. Ambiri makasitomala olemera kalembedwe wake yowopsa anali kuyembekezerera. Maulendowa anali Sandy Hill Pittman, mtolankhani kwa nyuzipepala. lipoti lake pa chitunda akanakhala malonda kwambiri chifukwa Scott Fisher ndi gulu lake.

Zochitika mu 1996 pa phiri la Everest

Za tsoka ku HimalayasI, tinakambirana kwambiri. Dongosolo la zochitika linapangidwa pa mawu a opulumuka maulendo atatu ndi mboni. 1996 anakhala mmodzi wa movutika kwambiri kwa ogonjetsa a Everest - 15 sanabwerere kunyumba. anthu asanu ndi atatu anaphedwa tsiku limodzi: Rob Hall ndi Scott Fischer, atsogoleri ulendo, anthu atatu a magulu awo ndi okwera atatu kuchokera m'mayiko a Chitibeta Border Service.

mavuto inayamba mu chitunda oyambirira. Sherpas (am'deralo-akuwauza) Kodi sakwanitsa kukhazikitsa njanji onse, omwe kwambiri chimasokoneza kuchira. Kupewedwa ndi alendo ambiri, tsiku chimenechi reshivshiesya udachitikira kuyesa. Chifukwa cha ndandanda okhwima a kukwera waswedwa. Kwa iwo amene amadziwa kufunika kubwerera mu nthawi, kubwerera kumsasa ndipo anakhala moyo. Ena anapitiriza kukula.

Rob Hall ndi Skott Fisher utsalira mpumulo wa ophunzira. Yotsirizira anali osasamalika thupi isanayambe ulendo, koma chinabisidwa mfundo imeneyi kwa ena. wotopa wake anaona pa chitunda, amene anali achilendo kwambiri kwa wolimba ndi yogwira climber.

Ndi zinayi koloko masana anafika pamwamba, ngakhale ndandanda uli kale maola awiri anali kuyamba mbadwa. Pa nthawiyi, chophimba kuwalako anamiza mapiri inasanduka Mkuntho a. Scott Fisher anatsika pamodzi ndi Sherpa Lopsangom. Zikuoneka kuti pa nthawi ino zinthu zinafika poipa kwambiri. Amaganiza kuti climber anayamba kutupa kwa ubongo ndi mapapo, ndipo panali siteji amphamvu za kutopa. Anakopa Sherpa pita kumsasa muthandizidwe.

Anatoly Boukreev, chitsogozo "Mountain misala" pa tsiku chinapulumutsa alendo atatu okha kuwatengera ku msasa. Iye anayesera kawiri kuti muime Fischer kuphunzira kwa anabwerera Sherpa climber pa boma, koma ziro aone ndi amphamvu mphepo sanamulole kuti mutu wa gululo.

Morning Sherpas anafika Fisher, koma chikhalidwe chake anali kale moyipa kuti adzipangira zovuta kusiya pa malopo, kuti omasuka. Mumsasa iwo anapita Makalu Guo, amene boma ali ololedwa kutero. Patapita kanthawi, pamaso Fischer anafikira ndi Boukreev, koma climber 40 wazaka anafa pa nthawi ya kuchulukana.

Zimayambitsa tsoka ndi Fischer ndi zipani zina kukwera

Mountains - malo sioneka pa dziko. Zikwi zisanu ndi zitatu mamita - kutalika limene thupi la munthu akhoza kudzuka. Mwa tsoka kungabweretse, chifukwa waung'ono kwambiri. Kuti tsiku paphiri la Everest okwera catastrophically unlucky. Iwo utsalira ku ndandanda okhwima chifukwa cha kuchuluka kwa alendo amene anaonekera pa nthawi yomweyo pa njira. nthawi A pamene inu munali kubwerera, izo zikusowa. Amene anafika pamwamba pambuyo pa zonse, pamene ndimabwerera anali mu mkuntho wa chisanu amphamvu ndipo sanathe kupeza mphamvu kupita ku msasa.

Open manda Everest

Scott Fisher, thupi lake anapezeka mazira Anatoly Boukreev May 11, 1996, anatsala pa malo a imfa yake. Kuchokera ku mtunda wa akuvutika kuli kovuta. Chaka chotsatira, kachiwiri kubwerera ku Nepal, Anatoly Boukreev kulipira ulemu wotsiriza kwa bwenzi lake, amene ankamuona ngati zabwino okwera climber America. Analikuta thupi Fisher miyala ndi kukangamira pa manda ake zinawonongeka ayezi Sankhapo.

Scott Fisher, thupi lake pamodzi ndi matupi a agonjetsi angapo akufa la Everest anaikidwa pa imfa banga, akhoza kumasulidwa ku mapazi mu 2010. Ndiye anaganiza kutali zedi kuti muchotse phiri otsetsereka ku anapeza pa zaka zinyalala ndi kuyesa kukokera mtembo. Mkazi wamasiye wa Rob Hall anasiya lingaliro, ndi mkazi wake Fishera Dzhinni ankaganiza kuti thupi mwamuna wake adzakhala unachita kutenthedwa pa phazi la phiri atamupha iye. Koma Sherpas anapeza ndi kumasula zotsalira za okwera ena awiri. Scott Fisher ndi Rob Hall kukhala pa Everest.

Chinyezimiritso cha tsokalo pa Everest mabuku ndi mafilimu a kanema

Ophunzira zimene zinachitika, mtolankhani Jon Krakauer, Anatoly Boukreev climber Beck Weathers ndi Gammelgaard Lin analemba buku lomwe iye anafotokoza mfundo yake ya view.

Cinema akhoza kuchotsedwa kucheza ndi mfundo yotero zingamuthandize ngati tsoka pa phiri la Everest mu 1996. Mu 1997, John Krakaeura buku anapangidwa mu filimu. Iye anapanga maziko a filimu "Imfa pa Everest."

Mu 2015, zowonetsera kunja chithunzi "Everest". Mutu wa maulendowa "Mountain misala" ankaimba ndi Dzheyk Dzhillenhol. Scott Fisher maonekedwe anayang'ana pang'ono mosiyana (anali lagolide), koma wosewera ndi sizim'vuta kupereka mphamvu ndi wachikoka chakuti chimachokera climber. Rob Hall ankaimba Dzheyson Klark. Mu M'chithunzithunzi munakwanisa kuona Kiru Naytli, Robin Rayt ndi Sam Worthington.

Dzheyk Dzhillenhol (Scott Fisher mu filimu "Everest") limabweretsa gulu la zisudzo amene luso ikukula kutsogolo kwa omvetsera. Pa zaka ziwiri zapitazi anatha kusangalatsa mafani awo masewera wamkulu "stringer" zojambula ndi "Lefty". Vuto la "Everest" yotero. Mufilimuyi walandira mkulu zizindikiro anthu ndi otsutsa. Analabadira za izo ndi okwera, kuti ochepa zazing'ono zolakwa kuwonetsera kwa makhalidwe a anthu mu zikhalidwe za mpweya njala.

Kodi ndizofunikira moyo wa munthu maloto?

Amafunitsitsa kukhala pa chimbuzi cha dziko n'zomveka. Koma Scott Fisher ndi Rob Hall, akatswiri waudindo, anasonyeza kufooka ndi kudzipereka kwa zokhumba makasitomala ake. phiri A sakhululuka zolakwika.