Pastukhov Miyaladi: Kufotokozera

Phiri Elbrus ndi yayikulu osati Caucasus komanso mu Europe. phirilo ili la phiri lomwe zinatha ndi mapiri awiri, kutalika amene mamita 5642 (kumadzulo pamwamba) ndi 5621 mamita (kum'mawa vertex). Pakati pawo kwambiri chishalo lili pamalo okwera mamita 5325.

Elbrus amakopeka osati okwera m'deralo. Ndikutsutsa nokha, ndi mu malingaliro kuti kutsegula kuchokera pamwamba, okwera kubwera kwa pafupi ndi kutali kudziko lina.

zodutsa kukwera

Ngozi pamene kukwera ming'alu okutidwa ndi chipale chofewa oundana, mphepo yamphamvu, otsika kutentha komanso kusowa mpweya pa chitunda kuti okwera.

Inu angafikire udachitikira ku mbali ya kumpoto. Pa chitunda kuona zinthu zochititsa chidwi ya mapiri chofewa chili pamwamba m'munda wobiriwira. Malo otsetsereka a kumpoto palibe chimakweza, misewu wopalidwa, m'misasa ndi malo omwera, kotero okwera kudalira mphamvu zawo.

Kukwera kumadzulo kwa phiri la Elbrus akuti ndi muyeso kwambiri. Apa, palibe chimakweza, matalala groomers, amene amayendetsa m'phiri okwera kuti kutalika anakhumba, palibe zomangamanga. Pa njira zambiri ovuta ndi oundana, kotero pano kupita okwera mokha. Pamene kutukula pamwamba kum'mawa kwa chiphaso cha Irik-Chat (okwera 3667 m) limatithandiza wokongola wa nsonga ya kum'mawa. Apa njira glacier kukwaniritsa kuyenda pa ayezi, ndi chingwe anaphunzitsa ndi njira inshuwalansi.

Kukwera pamwamba pa kum'mwera

Pakuti kukwera Elbrus anaika maulendo oposa mazana awiri, anthu onse okwera odziwa, komanso oyamba kumene. Chitunda kuti udachitikira ku otsetsereka kum'mwera ndi otchuka pakati oyamba okwera. Umayamba kwa Azau (okwera mamita 2,200 amene anafunsidwa) m'munsi. Nawu acclimatization oyamba zinthu phiri. Kenako, njira kumabweretsa phiri pogona "migolo" Pastukhov a miyala, Kenako akuyamba chitunda kuti pamwamba pa Phiri la Elbrus.

okwera odziwa angathe kugonjetsa paphiri awo, ndi anthu amene alibe zambiri, magulu ndi chitunda limodzi ndi kalozera. Chifukwa cha mavuto nyengo pa phiri Elbrus chitunda amachita bwino m'chilimwe ndi kugwa palibe pasanafike October.

ndi "miyala Pastukhov a" Kodi

Gulu la miyala ili pa mbali ya kum'mwera Elbrus. Stone lokwera chikutchedwa ndi climber Russian ndi asilikali mapu Andrei Pastukhov, chinkhoswe mu phunziro la Caucasus Mountains. Ndi chitunda kuti mkulu okwera munthu ayenera kukumana acclimatization ndi kuzolowera chosowa zinthu mpweya mu mapiri.

Pachikhalidwe miyala Pastukhov ndi kutalika kwa amene zimasiyanasiyana 4600 ku mamita 4800 akhale malo acclimatization pamaso pa kukwera pamwamba pa phiri Elbrus. Apa gulu amathera usiku m'mahema. Insufficiently wokonzedwera kwa chitunda pamwamba pa anthu akhoza kukwera miyala pa snowcat (zoyendera wapadera kwa kayendedwe ka madzi oundana) ndi makhalidwe phiri zokongola, ndiyeno kupanga mbadwa pa potsetsereka kapena zipangizo.

Zina za Andrei Pastukhov

Pastuhov Andrey anabadwa mu 1858 mu chigawo Kharkov. Iye sukulu asilikali St. Petersburg, ndiyeno anatumiza kwa Corps wa oyeza usilikali, ndipo kenako anaikidwa ku Caucasus usilikali District. Kupima ndi kufufuza za mapiri a ku Dagestan, dera ndi 1889 anapambana kum'mawa pachimake cha Kazbek kumpoto. Palibe patsogolo pake sanapange ndi chitunda amenewa.

Patapita chaka chimodzi, Russian climber woyamba ananyamuka pachimake kumadzulo kwa Elbrus popanda mawaya. Mu ntchito imeneyi anapanga mapu oundana ndipo analemera kwambiri zosonkhanitsira lalikulu la mchere phiri. Pa 1890 ndi kuyeza anapanga Yokwerera angapo mu mapiri, imene inatsegula njira za osiyana. Only mu 1896 amapanga chitunda chachiwiri pa nsonga ya kum'mawa. Pa izi gulu zitsulo, amene anatsagana naye, iye anagona pa lokwera miyala, kenako munakhala dzina lake Pastukhov miyala.

The tingachipeze powerenga chitunda njira

The tingachipeze powerenga chitunda njira pa Elbrus wa Kuvuta 2A. Nyamulani angacititse munthu aliyense ali ndi thanzi labwino ndi zinachitikira kuyenda mu mapiri. njira yanu kufuna ziwiya ndi zovala zotentha chifukwa nyengo pa Elbrus sizimadziwika.

Pambuyo gulu yochepa acclimatization siteshoni "Azau" ndi zipangizo zonse pa chingwe galimoto Nyamulani kutalika kwa mamita 3800 ku pogona "migolo". Nawa cabins lotsekedwa, cholinga kwa kukhala pa maziko a anthu 50, komanso 2 m'makhitchini ndi malo odyera. The pogona ali Kutentha magetsi. Kuti azolowere kukhala mu mapiri, mu "migolo" zofunika amathera masiku 2-3.

Pambuyo okwera ikuyenda m'phiri "Mthunzi khumi" ndi kupanga ulendo maphunziro Pastukhov miyala. The njira akuthamanga limodzi pansi ayezi, yokutidwa ndi chipale chofewa.

Kukwera pamwamba pa Elbrus umayamba usiku. M'nyumba kuti Pastukhov Miyaladi kupita 2 hours. Kudzera mamita 300-400 pa miyala chitunda mwachindunji akuyamba, kenako msewu akutembenukira kwa Kwera. Titapuma ola limodzi mu chishalo akhoza kupanga chitunda kuti vertex iliyonse.

Zipangizo kukwera Elbrus

akuyenera kubweretsa kwa otsetsereka kum'mwera kwa wolakwayo:

• nkhosa kapena thonje kabudula;
• angapo waika kabudula wang'ono wamkati ndi masokosi;
• akugona thumba chimene chingathe kupirira kutentha kwa -5 ° C;
• termomasku kuteteza nkhope kwa frostbite kapena kirimu zodzitetezera;
• windproof ofunda jekete ndi nyumba kapena jekete umene kupirira kutentha kwa -2 ° C;
• Alps nsapato ndi zidendene mwakhama ndi kutupa kwa akukonzekera amphaka ndi nsapato zochotseka.

Komanso, muyenera mphaka, ayezi nkhwangwa, kokayenda thandizo zida, ndizodzola, mizati ski, Magolovesi ofunda, headlamp tochi. Onetsetsani kuti kutenga ski kapu ndi magalasi ndi zosefera dzuwa.

Compliance ndi chitetezo pamene kukwera

Pamaso kukwera gulu ayenera mayina ndi kufufuza ndi kupulumutsidwa gulu EMERCOM la Russia. Pamene boma akusonyeza nambala ya anthu, nthawi njira ulamuliro kubwerera, ndi mtsogoleri deta timu. Pa chikweza simungathe kupita njira zafotokozeredwa kuloleza.

Onetsetsani kuti kupezeka kwa zida, zida thandizo ndi wailesi kapena njira zina kulankhulana. Molondola anatola yolimbanirana ndi zovala adzapanga kukwera yosangalatsa osati kutembenukira mu nkhondo kupulumuka.

chidwi ayenera kuperekedwa acclimatization kuti zinthu phiri. Kukwera pamwamba mungathe masiku 3-4 pokhapokha kukhudzana ndi "migolo" ndi kampeni mayeso Pastukhov miyala. Elbrus sakhululuka maphunziro zachibwana. Anthu ambiri amayamba anoxia, mutu kwambiri. Ena chosowa otaya mpweya boma zosayenera, amasiya kukhala chenicheni. Ngati zimenezi zachitika, muyenera kubwera pansi.

Pa zinthu muyenera kutenga nyama yophika, masamba, zipatso zouma ndi mtedza. The pogona musanapite njira akhoza kuphikidwa msuzi, mazira, cutlets nkhuku, phala. Chocolate tikulimbikitsidwa kuti asadye, chifukwa zingayambitse kunyansidwa ndi choipa chiwindi.

The obadwa kuchokera pamwamba pa Elbrus

Anthu ambiri ku achisangalalo "Azau Elbrus" kupita kutsetsereka. Pa otsetsereka kum'mwera pali 7 ski otsetsereka chifukwa skiers odziwa ndi oyamba. kutalika okwana ndi 11 Km. Pafupifupi onse kutsikatsika - ndi njira imodzi 6 Km lonse, amene palibe zolozera ndi dividers, ndipo maukonde chitetezo kokha m'madera ena.

Pa malo pali zingapo ski otsetsereka okwerera, amene kupulumutsa skiers kukhazikika. The chimbuzi limene likutuluka pa atamva - siteshoni "Gara-Bashi", ndi pa okwera mamita 3800 (a pang'ono pamwamba pa "migolo" chitetezo). Komabe pamwamba, "Mthunzi khumi" akhoza anafika ndi snowcat. Malo pakati pa "khumi Mthunzi" ndi "Gara-Bashi" akhoza Ambuye Mulungu yekha ndi skiers odziwa. Ena skiers, kwambiri kubwera kwa Pastukhov miyala. Kutsikatsika kutsetsereka m'dera limeneli ndi woopsa kwambiri chifukwa mukhoza kupeza mu mng'alu kapena kugwa mu chigumukire ndi.

Safety pa otsetsereka kutsetsereka zovuta "Elbrus Azau" asaaonerera Kupulumutsidwa Service, malo oopsa kwambiri, makamaka akachita khola zoteteza pa chilichonse njira gawo makamera kanema. skiers Opusa bwino ulendo limodzi ndi mlangizi, chifukwa kuthengo phiri otsetsereka kungakhale sizimadziwika.