Seam Machine: luso lachigawo ndi kupha

M'makina osindikiza, makina osindikizira ndi makina sali otsiriza. Momwe amazidziwira bwino komanso amadziwa momwe angachitire, mawonekedwe ake onse akudalira. Koma kuti muwadziwe bwino, m'pofunika kumvetsetsa mndandanda ndi kusiyana kwa teknoloji yakupha.

Mitundu Yamitundu

Malingana ndi cholinga cha ntchitoyi, zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito ndi mtundu wa nsalu, makompyuta osiyanasiyana a msonkhano amasankhidwa. Malingana ndi kafukufuku, makina a makina akhoza kukhala ophatikizana, kumapeto ndi kukongoletsa-kumaliza. Zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kumbali zosiyanasiyana za mankhwalawa.

Zogwirizanitsa seams zimasonkhanitsa mankhwalawo mu chipinda chimodzi. Izi ndizo maziko omwe makampani ovala zovala amachitira. Popanda izi, sizingatheke kuchita chilichonse.

Mphepete mwadongosolo wapangidwa kuti apereke mathero omasuka a chidacho kukhala mawonekedwe athunthu, okongola. Chombo choterechi sichimangokhala chinthu chokongoletsera, komanso ngati chitetezo chovala mofulumira.

Kumaliza mapepala sikumapanga ntchito iliyonse yapadera. Iwo, m'malo mwake, amatumikira monga chokongoletsera chowonjezera kuposa njira yolimbitsa umphumphu wa mankhwalawo.

Ngakhale kuti pali zovuta zambiri, kwa onsewa pali zofunika zina. Choyamba, ichi ndi mtheradi wa mzere. Ngakhalenso singano idalemba zigoba kapena zizindikiro, mzerewu ukhalebe wolunjika ndipo usadumphe kuchokera kumbali.

Ndipo chachiwiri ndi kulondola kwa kuphedwa. Simungathe kulembetsa zomwe mukufuna. Wokonza mapulani adayesa malo omwe izi zatha. Kupotoka kwa zomwe zafunidwa kumabweretsa kuwonongeka kwa mankhwala omaliza.

Amagwirizanitsa mbali zonse

Mndandanda uliwonse wa makina a makina umayamba ndi kugwirizana. Iwo amasiyanitsidwa ndi mitundu yambiri ya mitundu. Ngakhale kuti, kukhala woona mtima, mitundu yonseyi imamangidwa pa zigawo ziwiri zazikulu.

Chofunika kwambiri - kusinthana. Zogwiritsira ntchito 80% zogwirizana nazo. Chombo cha Obtach ndi chosiyana cha chaka chapitacho, chomwe chimagwiritsidwa ntchito pogulitsa zinthu kumalo kumene zimakhala zovuta kwambiri

Msoko wothandizira kawiri amagwiritsidwa ntchito mu nsalu, makamaka zobvala. Ali ndi kukwera kwakukulu kwa kuvala ndipo ndi osavuta kuchita. Msoko wosokera ukhoza kutchedwanso kukongoletsera, popeza ulibe nkhope yowonekera komanso yotsitsimula. Chigwirizanochi chimagwiritsidwa ntchito pamene ziphuphu ziyenera kugawanika. Amachitidwa pambali pambali ya mankhwala.

Makina ena onse ogwiritsira ntchito makina, omwe machipangidwe awo amadziwikitsidwa ndi akatswiri okhwima - ndizosiyana zosiyana za pamwambazi. Kuchita bwino kwawo kumakhala koyenera paokha, ndipo kusadziŵa kachipangizo kogwiritsira ntchito kwawo sikungapangitse mphunzitsi wanzeru kwambiri.

Makhalidwe akulu

Mzimayi aliyense amene angakhale kamodzi pamakina osokera angapangitse makina osokera. Zachitika motere: Mfundo ziwiri zimapangidwira mkati ndipo zimayikidwa ndi nsonga yamba. Panthawi imeneyi, lingaliro la "mzere wazitsulo" likuwonekera. Uwu ndiwo mtunda kuchokera pamphepete mwa mankhwala kupita kumalo kumene mzere umadutsa. Muzochitika zachilendo, ndi 0,5-1 masentimita, koma malingana ndi nsalu ndi chida chomwecho, chingakhale chowopsa kapena chochepa.

Zopereka za mthunzi ziyenera kupangidwa panthawi yomwe adadulidwa, mwinamwake kukula kwa mankhwalawo kungakhale kocheperapo kusiyana ndi poyamba.

Obtach suture ndi kusiyana kwa kusinthana. Pambuyo pa magawo awiriwa akugwirizanitsa ndi mthunzi wopota, amachokera kuti phokoso likhale pamalo pomwe mzere umadutsa. Choncho perekani makapu, mapepala, mapepala. Pa nthawi yomweyi, kufali kwa fillet weld ndi kochepa kwambiri. Ndi 0.3-0.4 masentimita.

Kudziwa malo awiri okhawa, mukhoza kupanga zovala zambiri.

Kuthamanga msoko

Mwachizoloŵezi, kugwira ntchito kwa makina a makina kungakhale kovuta kwambiri. Kusuntha kawiri kawiri sikovuta kwambiri, koma kumafuna luso lina kuti likhale langwiro.

Choyamba, ife timaphatikiza mbali ziwiri ndi mbali zolakwika wina ndi mnzake. Timapanga mthunzi wachetechete mpaka masentimita 0,5, kenako timagula mankhwalawo ndi kumbali yolakwika ndikupanganso chimodzimodzi, koma 1 mm kuposa momwe zinalili kale. Motero, pamphepete mwa ziwalo za sewn zimapezeka zobisika muthumba losungidwa ndi nsalu.

Gwiritsani ntchito thumba lachiwiri pamabedi, omwe amatha kutsuka nthawi zonse, choncho mzere pamphepete mwaulere ndi yaikulu kwambiri kuposa yowonjezera.

Komanso zingapezeke pa zovala za ana, koma pambali. Mwanjira iyi, zipserazo zimachotsedwa mkati ndipo m'mphepete mwachinsinsi muli zobisika.

Kuyika msoko

Zimatsimikiziridwa kuti mawonekedwe a makina akhoza kukongoletsa. Chitsanzo cha izi ndi mthunzi wa French (jeans). Dzina lachiwiri amalandira chifukwa chogwiritsa ntchito mathalauza a jeans nthawi zambiri. Monga mukudziwira, chombo chamkati cha mankhwalawa chiyenera kukhala champhamvu komanso chodalirika.

Sayansi ya kukhazikitsidwa kwake si yophweka, koma osati yovuta kwambiri. Zonsezi zimayamba ndi mfundo yakuti ziwalozo zimayikidwa mosagwirizana ndi m'mphepete mwake. Gawo la pansi liyenera kuyendayenda pafupifupi 7 mm. Kutaya 7-8 mm kuchokera m'mphepete mwatsatanetsatane, tsatanetsatane wafotokozedwa. Pambuyo pake, m'munsimu pamapeto pake muli atakulungidwa ndi msoko wokhala pamwamba. Nyumba yonseyi imafalikira kumbali imodzi, kenako kumalo ena.

Ngati inu mukuziwona izo, ndiye mthunzi uwu ndi mtundu wa kusintha. Pano pano mzerewu wapangidwa m'njira yoti onse opanga amakhalabe mu ndege yomweyo ndi mankhwala.

Zosakaniza zochepa

Makina ogwiritsira ntchito, machitidwe omwe takambirana pamwambapa, ndi otchuka kwambiri. Amagwiritsidwa ntchito nthawi zambiri. Koma palibe zosangalatsa zosakanikirana ndi zina .

Choyamba, muyenera kumvetsera pamutu wapamwamba. Amadutsa pa zokongoletsera ndi kumaliza, komabe akutumikila kugwirizanitsa magawo awiriwo. Amachitidwa pambali kutsogolo. Pali mitundu iwiri: ndi chinsinsi cham'mbuyo komanso ndi malire. Pamwamba pambali ya mankhwala, kumaso kwa nkhope, kumamangiriza gawo lomwe liyenera kutsekedwa. Ngati mutangoyamba kudutsa kapena kuyendetsa m'mphepete mwake, adzatsekedwa.

Mwanjira imeneyi amakoka zikwama, makoti ndi zokongoletsera.

Chidutswa chodula ndi chinthu chokongoletsa. Pambuyo pa mankhwalawa, pamphepete mwa msokowo amatsukidwa ndipo amafalikira molingana ndi msoko waukulu, pamtunda womwewo.

Kumaliza mapepala a mankhwalawa

Kuwonjezeranso kwa magulu a makina kumatanthauza zomwe zimatchedwa kumbali. Ntchito yawo yaikulu ndi kupanga mapepala apamtundu, monga mkanjo wa skirt, pansi pa thalauza kapena neckline. Momwe zidzakhalire molondola komanso movomerezeka, zimadalira momwe maonekedwewo akuonekera, ndi momwe zimakhalira.

Pali mitundu iwiri ikuluikulu: kusagwirizana ndi kukonza. Pakuti padding sagwiritsidwanso ntchito zida zina za nsalu. Ntchitoyi ikuchitidwa mwaulere. Pofuna kukonza, nkofunika kukhala ndi khola, lopangidwa kuchokera ku nsalu imodzi monga mankhwala, kapena kuchokera kumbali zina. Zimatengera lingaliro loyambirira la wopanga.

Kusiya nsonga za mankhwala popanda chithandizo ndizosatheka, chifukwa nsalu iliyonse idzaphulika ndi kusungunuka, zomwe zingasokoneze maonekedwe a zovala ndi nsalu.

Makina oyendetsa makina amatha

Kudula mankhwala ndi chinthu chofunika kwambiri. Zimapangidwa ndi kupindika nsalu kumbali yolakwika. Pali mitundu yambiri ya ma sutures achichepere. Ngati mumangovala nsalu ndi kuigwedeza pamtunda wa pafupifupi 0,5 masentimita kuchokera pamphepete, timapeza msoko wokhala ndi zitseko. Zikuwoneka bwino pamphuno wa chovala ndi kavalidwe, chifukwa ndi kuwala komanso kosachoka. Koma mzere womasuka uli bwinobe kuti upezepo kale kuti usapezeke kukhetsa.

Mphepete mwachinsinsi ikuchitika motere. Nsaluyi imatembenuzidwa mkati, pafupifupi 0,5 masentimita, ndiyeno kachiwiri, koma ndi masentimita 1-1.5. Mzere umapangidwa kuchokera kumbali yolakwika ndi msoko wa 1-2 mm. Izi zimatsimikizira chitetezo cha m'mphepete.

Ndipo njira yotsiriza ya padding ndi mthunzi wawiri. Zimagwiritsidwa ntchito mofanana ndi zomwe zapitazo, koma kusinthana kumapangidwa kumbali zonse ziwiri. Chotsatira chake, mumapeza mzere m'mphepete, motsogoleredwa ndi mizere iwiri. Njira imeneyi imagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri mu jeans ndi mathalauza. Ingopangitsani thumba kuti mulowetse gulu la zotanuka.

Kugwiritsa Mipata

Kukonzekera mankhwala ndi zokongoletsera zokha kusiyana ndi zosowa zenizeni. Ndizomveka kugwiritsira ntchito ziboliboli, koma nthawi zonse sizitsutsana ndi maonekedwe awo komanso momwe nsaluzo zimagwirira ntchito mwanjira imeneyi.

Kugwiritsiridwa ntchito kumagwiritsidwa ntchito pazitsulo, komanso m'mawonekedwe owala kuti awapatse kukhala osasinthasintha.

Katswiri wamakina opanga makina pogwiritsa ntchito njira yotanthauzira amatanthauza gulu la zovuta. Chifukwa cha izi - kulamulira zinthu zitatu pa nthawi yomweyo, zomwe ziyenera kuphatikizidwa mwangwiro ndi wina ndi mnzake. Pankhani iyi, pamphepete mwayekha iyenera kubisala m'mphepete mwake.

Poyambitsa ntchitoyo, kuyambira pomwe, pamphepete mwazitali, m'mphepete mwake mumatulutsidwa kuti apitirizebe kugwira ntchito yolakwika. Ndiye ndikofunikira kufalitsa ziwalo zonse za mankhwalawa ndiyeno pita kumzere. Kuphatikizana kwa msoko pamene ukukonzekera ndi 0.1-0.2 cm, izi zimafuna luso linalake kuchokera kumsodzi.

Kukongoletsa kumayambira

Makina osukula amakono angapangitse makina oposa makina, komanso angapo. Izi zikutanthauza kuti mmalo momwe mzerewu ukuonekera, sikofunika kuti ukhale wolunjika. Ngati kuli koyenera, mungayambe kugwedeza, mawonekedwe kapena zitsulo. Izi zimapangitsa kuti kunja kwa zovala kusadabwitsa komanso kokongola.

Komanso, zokopa zokongoletsera zingagwiritsidwe ntchito ngati zinthu zokongoletsera zosavuta. Kuti muchite izi, mukhoza kuchita pang'ono kuti mumvetsetse momwe nsalu inayake imakhalira ndi mtundu woterewu. Mphindi zochepa zochepa zidzakupatsani mwayi wodabwitsa, chifukwa zidzakhala kale njira ya wolemba ndi nsalu yowusamba.

Kusakaniza makina okongoletsera

Chinthu chofunika kwambiri chomwe muyenera kudziwa: Kukonzekera ndi kumaliza mapepala nthawi zonse kumaonekera. Kotero, ngati inu mumachita izo, ndiye zana limodzi peresenti zapamwamba.

Mukhoza kuzigwiritsa ntchito paliponse: pangani mthumba wonyenga kapena kusoka zipper zomwe sizimatsegulira kanthu, kusinthitsa kutalika kwake ndi kukula kwake kwa mankhwala, kupanga patchwork kwenikweni kapena quilting.

Chinthu chachikulu sichiyenera kuopa kuyesa ndi kulingalira chomwe chidzaperekedwe ichi kapena mzere wowonjezera pa blous kapena mathalauza otsirizidwa.