Wolemba wofufuza Heinrich Harrer: yonena, ntchito, mabuku abwino, ndi chidwi mfundo

moyo wake ndi mabuku ambiri ayesedwa pa kaonedwe ka umembala wa chipani cha Nazi, kupanga mapeto pa cholinga mphamvu cha maphunziro ake othamanga ndi zamaphunziro. Heinrich Harrer nthawi zonse amaonedwa anakhala mu maganizo ndi asilikali gulu lopondereza ngati musanaganizire komanso sitingathe amazindikira, ngakhale iye anayesera kuti awaonetse. Ngati mulibe ngofunika kwambiri kwa malingaliro andale Harrer, ife tingakhoze kokha chidwi ndi zinafuna wolimba mtima komanso mountaineer wotchuka uyu ndi wapaulendo.

zaka zoyambirira

Iye anabadwa m'chaka cha 1912 mu yaing'ono Austria m'tauni Obergossene, mu banja la wogwira ntchito ku positi ofesi Yozefa Harrera ndi mkazi wake Johanna. Mu 1927, anasamukira ku Graz, kumene Heinrich Harrer sukulu ya sekondale ndipo anayamba University of Karl Franz. Kuyambira mu 1933 mpaka 1938 anaphunzira malo ndi maphunziro thupi pa nthawi yomweyo zimayesetsa mapiri ndi kutsetsereka.

Iye anali wophunzira nawo mu Games Zima Olympic 1936, unachitikira ku Germany. Koma Austria boycotted chifukwa chargeability alangizi mu kutsetsereka ya m'mapiri kuti akatswiri kuti kuwatulutsa iwo kuchokera otsetsereka Olympic. Mu 1937, Heinrich Harrer anapambana mpikisano kutsikatsika, m'gulu pulogalamu ya World Student Games, koma wakhala chilakolako anachitikira kukwera izo.

North Nkhope ya Eiger

Pakutha pa maphunziro chifukwa Harrer anali phiri angapo kukwera ndi gulu apamwamba kwambiri. Mu 1938, limodzi ndi bwenzi lake ndi countryman Fritz Kasparek, Heinrich Harrer adza kwa kulanda lodziwika bwino "Wall Imfa" - kumpoto nkhope yaikulu lubwe piramidi kutalika mamita 3970, amene anatenga dzina la Eiger mu Switzerland.

mpandawo anakhalabe unclimbed kwa nthawi yaitali, ngakhale akuyesetsa ambiri ankati anthu ambirimbiri. Njira kwaiye pa Eiger kumpoto nkhope zovuta Geological Kapangidwe ka nyengo pamwamba ndi malo m'deralo. Pamwamba ankawachotsera zigumukire ambiri, pafupifupi zophimbidwa ndi ayezi ndi ali otsetsereka pafupifupi madigiri 75, ndi m'madera ena ndi kukondera negative.

Pafupipafupi mkulu wa rockfalls ndi zigumukire, mofulumira kusintha nyengo chitunda pa nkhope kumpoto kwa Eiger wakupha. Motero, akuluakulu a boma anatseka otsetsereka chifukwa okwera ndi phiri Owapulumutsa anakana kuti akapulumutse amene inu zawo njirayi.

July 24, 1938

Kale pa mpanda wa Austrians Kasparek ndi Harrer mu mtolo ndi okwera awiri German - Anderle Hekmayerom ndi Ludwig Vorgom kuti anatenga zipangizo odalirika kwambiri kuti muyende a padziko ayezi. The pofuna olowa kukwera kupambana, ngakhale ena disruptions pamene kupulumutsidwa pokhapokha inshuwalansi, ndi kulowa chigumukire ndi, amene anapulumutsa okhawo odalirika zipangizo, kuleza mtima ndi kulimbikira. Heinrich Harrer, amene mabuku zambiri kufotokoza Maulendo zosiyanasiyana anauza Patapita za chochitika mu zopelekedwa buku "The White Kangaude" (1959).

The bwino Austria-German gulu la okwera zimene zinachitika miyezi itatu yokha pambuyo analanda dziko la Austria ndi Nazi Germany, mabodza Nazi anapanga chizindikiro cha mfundo wosachimwa aukali wa Fascism. Harrer pamodzi ndi ena agonjetsi Eiger analandira maulemu ambiri ndi mphoto, komanso omvera ndi Hitler ndi akuluakulu ena a Nazi.

Ulendo ku HimalayasI

Kukwera ntchito kwa masewera, imene Nazi Germany, anali mwapadera. The anagonjetsa mfundo yatsopano ndipo popitapita maulendo unexplored propaganda Hitler anaona kufunika wophiphiritsa wa kudza dziko ulamuliro wa Aryan Nation. Ndi ganging amakopeka Hitler ndi ziphunzitso lachinsinsi la Shambhala - dziko lodziwika bwino anthu supermen, wodziwa kuti kupanga losagonjetseka ndi wamphamvuzonse.

Malingana ndi nthano, obisika imeneyi inali pakati pa nsonga Himalaya, mwina Tibet - m'dziko mwachinsinsi, amene anatha kuti kuwerenga ndi alendo, ndi za panalibe mudziwe enieni azungu. Choncho, kudziwa Maulendo angapo okwera German bungwe kufufuza m'deralo. Sizikudziwika ngati cholinga anali kufufuza za nthano Shambhala Himalaya ulendo mu 1939, mbali imene m'gulu Harrer, koma izo ndi zambiri Akufufuza, wokonda chakuti wapaulendo wotchuka, nthawi chinabisidwa Nazi m'mbuyomu.

Kufufuza njira pa Nanga Parbat

Ulendo wautali, mpaka pamene wotchuka buku la amene analemba Heinrich Harrer - "Zisanu Zaka Tibet", anali umalimbana kukonzekera anagonjetsa wina nsonga Himalaya - osiyanasiyana Nanga Parbat, limene lili mu kumpoto chakumadzulo la Himalaya, unali British njuchi - India.

Pambuyo njira yatsopano pamwamba tithe lachitatu chiwerengero cha anthu ophedwa amene anali kuyesera kuti akagonjetse izo, okwera German ndi yophukira oyambirira 1939 anali Karachi, kuyembekezera chombo kubwerera ku Europe wapezeka. chombo womangidwa. Ndipo atangobadwa September 1 - tsiku inayake ya Nkhondo Yachiwiri Yapadziko Lonse ndipo pambuyo kulowa mu UK ake - September 3 - iwo anali m'dziko la adani ndipo anamangidwa.

bwino kuthawa

Atayesera kuthawa - wosakwatiwa ndipo m'magulu - amphamvu Austria wapanga kuyambira chiyambi m'ndende wake. Pambuyo gulu lawo linali msasa wa internment ili m'tsinde la Himalaya, chifukwa Harrer zinadziwika kuthawa njira - kudzera mipita phiri la Tibet. Movement m'dera lamapiri la dziko, ngakhale wothamanga ndi choipa - zovuta kuti zimafuna kukonzekera lalikulu, kotero unali wopambana kwa Harrer si ulendo woyamba.

Mode mumsasa, kumene adalamulira lachitukuko England mwachionekere wosiyana kwambiri ndi malamulo amene dziko la Germany mkaidi a nkhondo pa East Front. Choncho, Harrer ndi anzake anali ndi mpata wabwino bwino kukonzekera kupulumuka. Koma ngakhale ndiye, mpaka kumalire ndi India ndi Tibet ife sizinawakhudze onse - ambiri amakonda kupita ku msasa. Mu Lhasa - likulu Tibet a - pamodzi ndi Harrer anali kokha Peter Aufschnaiter, amene amatchulidwa mu autobiography, lomwe linalembedwa ndi Heinrich Harrer.

"7 Zaka Tibet"

Books anapanga Austria wapaulendo wotchuka, muli zambiri zokhudza dzikolo, kumene angapeze alendo analetsedwa mwa lamulo. Panali kulosera mmodzi wa amuna anzeru, chimene Tibet anataya ufulu wodzilamulira pambuyo kudzakhala alendo. Choncho, poyamba Harrer ndi mnzake anamva cha ukali wa Tibetans onse - ndi abusa yosavuta akuluakulu olemekezeka.

Izo zasintha m'njira zambiri chifukwa cha kusintha mwa iwo okha zilembo zazikulu - nkomwe kowopsya pa njinga mkulu, misonkhano ndi njira yodabwitsa ya moyo wa Tibetans, ankadziwa chipembedzo chawo yotsutsa nkhanza cholengedwa chirichonse moyo, wosasiya kufufuza mu moyo wa munthu, ngakhale poyamba analekanitsa wamwano malingaliro Nazi.

Cinai wotchedwa Dalai Lama

Tenzin Gyatso - chimake amoyo a Buddha, mtsogoleri wauzimu wa Tibet, mnyamata moti amene akufuna kuphunzira zambiri za dziko, inali kutali kwawo - ngwazi ina bukhu. Heinrich Harrer ndi wotchedwa Dalai Lama, muli nacho yodziwa m'chaka cha 1940, anathandiza oyamba Harrer mpaka imfa yake mu 2006, akusintha amphamvu mwagwirizana chikoka pa mzake. Ndi ku Austria, achikulire ndi zaka 26 wotchedwa Dalai Lama waphunzira zambiri za miyambo European, sayansi ndi luso zipambano za modernity.

Izi zapangitsa kuti atamunamizira Chitibeta Abuda ndi aboma Chinese, momvetsa zogwirizana ndi funso la Tibet ufulu kugona ndi Nazi. Komano, mphamvu zazikulu za wotchedwa Dalai Lama mu ndale za dziko, zomwe, ngakhale pangano chiphunzitso akale azipembedzo, ndi munthu limodzi kuchokera lamakonoli, komanso zimachokera ku muchiyanjano cha anthu awiri amene (makamaka kuweruza mwa filimu mu 1994), zitsulo mabwenzi enieni.

Pamaziko a zochitika izi ndipo analenga bestseller lake Heinrich Harrer. "Zisanu Zaka Tibet" ndi kuwombera-book pa filimu yake ndi Brad Pitt udindo kutsogolera - dzina lake wotchuka padziko lonse. Ngakhale atabwerera kwawo mu 1950, anapanga zambiri kukwera ndi ulendo enieni kuchita zinthu zosiyanasiyana chikhalidwe, iye lofalitsidwa oposa 20 mabuku. Harrer Ndi zoziwika bwino kuti anali masamba yowala kwambiri moyo wake, kuti kuyambira Tibet muyaya zinabindikira mu mtima wake.