Elbrus: ndemanga. Elbrus kwa oyamba: Ndemanga

Kukula kwa ntchito zokopa alendo mu nthawi yathu zafika pamlingo kuti taboo mpaka malo apaulendo kusiya malo okha, ndipo ngakhale posachedwapa.

Ngati wina zaka 15-20 zapitazo, kugonjetsa nsonga a masewera kwambiri, tsopano kukwera Elbrus (ndemanga novice apaulendo kunena za izo) - uyu ndi mtundu muyeso wa mavocha tchuthi Lomwe lingathe kukopedwa pa mwachizolowezi bungwe kuyenda.

Elbrus

Anatuluka mu mochedwa Neogene zaka pa nthawi ya zochotsa lokwera Caucasus, Elbrus kuphulika anali amphamvu, kuti zotsatira za wakale kuphulika ake lero asayansi kupeza mazana makilomita kutali kwa izo.

ntchito chamoto anaima zaka 2500 zapitazo, koma Elbrus, amakambirana za mphamvu ndi mphamvu amene amapitiriza nthano wamba ndi nkhani m'zaka za m'ma 16 za pa mapu mu mawonekedwe a chulucho wa moto.

Chimodzi mwa mapiri apamwamba zinatha anayamba kugonjetsa dziko m'zaka za m'ma 19. Russian ulendo, wopangidwa mwa asayansi ndi asilikali, mu 1829, anayesa kugonjetsa Elbrus ndipo ngakhale atafika msinkhu wa 4.800 m, umboni ndi lolembedwa pa mwala ndi George Cross chosema pa izo. Koma kufika pamwamba akanakhoza kokha kuwatsogolera Kabardian, pamene anali bwino ndinazolowera kwa rarefied mphepo ya m'mapiri.

Umboni wa anagonjetsa phiri Elbrus anakhala mwambo mbale, yomwe nkhani, koma kuti kugonjetsa mitu iwiri nsonga phiri sikuti mwasiya. Mu 1874, mapiri English anamvera kumadzulo pachimake. Onse nsonga, ndi ntchito yeniyeni ya zimachititsa chilumbachi pa phiri pa mapu, kuphunzira Russian mapu Pastukhov wotchedwa polemekeza thanthwe pa kuzungulira 4700 meters.

Kuyambira pamenepo, kukwera zida anali bwino ndi kuchuluka chiwerengero cha anthu amene anagonjetsa phiri. Elbrus (ndemanga okwera ya 20th Century akunenera za izi) anali chiyeso mphamvu, kupirira ndi kudziletsa. Lero, phiri zinatha akhoza kuwuka aliyense alendo sanaphunzire kwambiri. Tiyenera kukumbukira kuti Elbrus chaka amatenga anthu ambirimbiri amene anali osasamala kapena pa zinthu modzidalila.

Weather pa Elbrus

Nyengo Elbrus ndi zambiri zofanana ndi kozizira, monga avareji kutentha kwa mwezi yakula apa ukufika 8 madigiri Celsius, ndi zikhalidwe ovuta kwambiri nyengo ndi February.

Pafupipafupi kunagwa chipale chofewa ndi kusintha zambiri nyengo, analenga phiri ulemerero "kutsogolera mphepo," lotembenuzidwa kuchokera Nogay chilankhulo ndi mutu wa Elbrus.

Okwera 19 ndi zaka 20 adali kudalira mwayi zikuchitika kukwera. Lero, amakono nyengo zida amalola kudziwa pasadakhale pamene inu mukhoza kupita kukagonjetsa Elbrus. Reviews za okwera ambiri amati kudziwa za nyengo pasadakhale zambiri kumapulumutsa miyoyo.

Pakuti mayiko okwera pa misanje osiyanasiyana Phiri anakhazikitsa transshipment m'munsi, cholinga chachikulu cha zimene zimakhala ndi pogona mu nyengo yoipa ndiponso luso pochitika acclimatize pamaso kukwera. Yotsirizira ndi ayenera, chifukwa Elbrus mwamphamvu akunena za anthu amene amanyalanyaza chitetezo.

Malinga otsetsereka a kuwuka ndi akuyamba, izo zimatengera kwa kapangidwe kake.

Elbrus - zoni alendo

Chitunda kuti Elbrus (ndemanga kuti tsiku ili lambiri) anakhala mtundu wa yopuma zokopa alendo ndi zochepa zapitazi. Zomangamanga chitukuko mawonekedwe a galimoto chingwe, mahotela ndi zapansi transshipment anatsogolera chakuti kuno anakoka alendo padziko lonse.

Mwachitsanzo, Phiri Cheget (3650m) ndi ski achisangalalo ndi mayendedwe kwambiri mu dziko. Onse amene akufuna kusiya phiri zovuta kuno kuyesa mphamvu zawo. Mu nyengo pamene snowboarders tinapezanso mphamvu Elbrus ski (ndemanga kuti izi November), ndi 4 chimakweza ndi 3 magalimoto chingwe, mizere kosakwanira yobereka kusala kudya kwa obwera onse malo. Chifukwa cha iwo, skiers akhoza kuyamba obadwa kuchokera msinkhu wa mamita 3070 pamwamba pa nyanja, omwe si kophweka oyamba komanso kuwuka wodekha ndi mbadwa mofulumira zingakhudze thanzi akukhudzidwira mu mawonekedwe a chizungulire komanso nseru.

mukhoza kukhala omasuka pakati otsetsereka ndi phindu mphamvu, kulawa zakudya m'dera kupezeka mu mahotela pafupi ndi malo omwera. Komanso pano inu mukhoza kutenga mutu chiyambi pa Elbrus. Reviews okwera kunena kuti zikepe ndi kudula Azu, kumene glade Cheget akhoza anafika pa basi kapena pa phazi (6 km), kwambiri amachepetsa nthawi kukwera m'phirimo.

Base kwa amene anali pa phiri yeniyeniyo siyabwino chifukwa iwowa yaitali. Cholinga chawo - kupereka anthu mwayi wakupita ndinazoloŵera, akuchita Mokweza ku Nawonso achichepere wina ndi mzake, kukhala kosavuta kusuntha chitunda cha Elbrus. Reviews kuti pali osachepera zinthu zokwanira kuti tipeze mphamvu.

Elbrus kwa oyamba

Development ntchito zokopa alendo ku mapiri walenga angapo ukatswiri latsopano, mmodzi amene anali woperekeza alendo ntchito, kapena, ngati iwo kuti mu masiku akale, kondakitala.

Poyambirira, kondakitala ndi anakakamizika kupulumutsa pa ulendo akupita. Elbrus kwa oyamba (makamaka oyamba kumene ndemanga zikusonyeza kufunika kwa izi), "anabweretsa" mbadwo watsopano wa akatswiri amene chachikulu ntchito sanali kokha kuthandiza komanso kuphunzitsa za okwera wosadziwa.

Monga ulamuliro, okwera odziwa kupereka malangizo kwa oyamba, amene angapezeke pa Intaneti, Chabwino, amene awerenga iwo? Odzaona malo nthawi zambiri naively amaganiza kuti ulendo woyendetsa wopanga kupereka wokongola mu mawonekedwe a kugonjetsa nsonga, manja ake woyera pansi pamwamba pa phiri analowa. Ndipotu bungwe anagulitsa ulendo, mwamtheradi chete kupeza kasitomala kukwera kapena ayi. mpumulowo, monga iwo amati, ndi atsogoleri luso.

Elbrus kwa oyamba (ndemanga zonse "Dummies" titsimikizire kuti) chimayambira kunyumba:

• Choyamba, pamafunika osachepera maphunziro ena thupi miyendo kwenikweni katundu akhoza kuyenda pa mayendedwe bwino. Zokwanira kwa masabata 3-4 pamaso kuyenda kuonjezera kuthamanga pa mapazi anu, likhale Tambasula yaing'ono, kuthamanga, akupita mmwamba ndi pansi masitepe. Tiyeni minofu otbolyat kunyumba, ndiye kudzakhala kosavuta kuti akagonjetse Elbrus. Reviews atsopano zimene aona katundu kwambiri, zomwe asokoneza chimwemwe chonse cha kukwera, si zachilendo pa Intaneti.
• Kachiwiri, izo zimatengera chovala chabwino. Zinali zabwino ndi zodula. Mtengo mu nkhani iyi si nthawi zonse khalidwe. Zinthu zina zikhoza lendi pa malo, koma nsapato ayenera kumwedwa omasuka yekha ndi worn-.
• Kachitatu, ndikofunika kudziwa udindo umoyo wawo pamaso kudzuka mapiri. Ngati munthu sudzatha acclimatization chifukwa mavuto ndi magazi kapena, pa zifukwa zina, ndi bwino kuti agonjetse nsonga chapamwamba zosakwana Elbrus. Mpumulo (ndemanga za izo ndi) mmodzi wa zapansi adzakhala chidwi, koma otetezeka.
• Chachinayi, ndimamvetsera kuti namulondola wanu. Iye ndi katswiri climber, kotero malangizo ake ndipo ngakhale malamulo si takambirana.

Newcomer nkofunika tonse timvetsetse kuti pogula akayendere Elbrus, iye amalipira okha pofuna, zingachititse chirichonse, kotero kupita pa ulendo, mutengepo ndi mwayi wina. Anthu amene amakonda mpumulo mu chitonthozo, osati abwino ulendo kuti Elbrus. Reviews zokhudza mavuto a kukwera ndi ntchito thupi zikutsimikiziridwa.

Chitunda kumadzulo

Pa phiri ili akhoza anafika ku madera osiyana a dziko, koma osati onse ali oyenera oyamba. Mwachitsanzo, chitunda kumadzulo ndi abwino okha okwera ndi zambiri, chifukwa apa njirayo watsekedwa ndi oundana wamphamvu, miyala omwe amafunika luso loimba kwambiri kwa kukwera kovuta.

msasa m'munsi ili kumbali ya kumadzulo mu kudula pa okwera 2670 mamita (Gil-Lamulungu). Kufunika kwa tsiku acclimatization, amene angathe kuchitidwa ndi ntchito m'zipatala magwero zachipatala.

Siteji yotsatira - chiuli kwa msasa pafupi (3500 m) ndi mbali ya zinthu, kuti pa msinkhu wina wa acclimatization. Tsiku lotsatira, n'zotheka kusamuka zinthu zina. msasa pamalo glacier №2 Bityukov Tyubyu (moraine ake). Pa nthawi imeneyi, amatengedwa wapakatikati msinkhu wa mamita 3900, kumene mukhoza kusiya zida.

Mumsasa lachitatu -. Pa okwera 4200 mamita kumene mungathere tsiku ulesi asanawatumizire m'munsi mfundo yomaliza. Owonjezera acclimatization tsiku chingathandize munthu wosadziwa kuti ayambenso mphamvu azolowere hypoxia.

Wachinayi m'munsi - pamalo okwera 4600 m, kenako pali adzauka pa Elbrus. Mountain (ndemanga okwera kuti izo) ndi zochepa angaloŵe, pamene ntchito kukonzekera chidachitika bwino.

The kukwera pakokha oopsa, ngakhale chisanu otsetsereka ali otsetsereka. Ngati Thupi ndinazolowera mpweya rarefied, njira kwa nyengo yabwino sadzakhala zovuta ndi zoopsa.

Kukwera kuchokera kummawa

Tsidya lino mukhoza kukwera pamwamba pa mapiri kum'mawa, ndi kutalika kwa 5621 mamita komwe muyenera kuika pa msasa wawo m'munsi ngati climber -. Woyambitsa A, muyenera wolondolera odziwa, monga mbali ya phiri sasamalira moyo womasuka.

The oyamba kunyamuka kwa anatengera ndi mukagone aikidwa pamalo okwera mamita 2,400 zotsatirazi kuwuka kwa "kukumba." - Pitani Irik-Chat (3667 m), kufupi ndi kumene mahema. Glacier anachita kulimbitsa thupi, ndipo kenako anachita kuwuka kwa mlingo lotsatira - mamita 4,000 - ndipo anaika hema usiku.

Kugwirira msasa zochokera okwera 4,500 m. Titapuma pano ikuchitika maphunziro ndi mayesero kugonjetsa okwera 5000 m. Patapita nthawi nyamuka anatengera akuyamba pa pamwamba, kenako mbadwa maziko a.

Mwina kwambiri "yovuta" mbali ya Elbrus.

Chitunda kuchokera kum'mwera

Njira kum'mwera ndi zotchuka kwambiri ndi makampani ulendo ndi okonzeka kwambiri kuti akomere iwo onse. Pa mbali iyi mungathe kugonjetsa Elbrus m'nyengo yozizira. Feedback anthu amene anachita izo, iwo kunena kuti zimatengera chidwi mphamvu ndi kufunitsitsa kukana kutentha pansi digiri -45 ndi mphepo kuluma.

acclimatization Choyamba ikuchitika pamalo okwera 2200 mamita pa msasa malo "Azu". Kuyambira pano mukhoza bwinobwino kupeza m'munsi lotsatira mu galimoto chingwe, amene umatha pa kutalika kwa 2950 mamita pa siteshoni Old kaja.

Reseeding kwa mzere wina wa msewu, inu mukhoza kuwuka mfundo ina kwa anatengera - "Mir" siteshoni (3500 m). Pakuti oyamba ndi bwino osati kuthamangira ndi pochitika acclimatize pang'onopang'ono kuti tonsefe kutalika kwa osachepera tsiku.

Kuchokera "World" chiri mpando "cableway" mthunzi "migolo" siteshoni (3750 m). Izo zinali mu msasa uwu akudutsa anatengera zofunika. Mukapita mozungulira malo phukusi, ndandanda chikweza:

• Pa tsiku loyamba mu "migolo" mwachizolowezi kuyenda, akuyendayenda Dera ndi ena.
• Tsiku lachiwiri - ulendo wa "m'mene angatetezedwe 11" kutalika kwa 4050 mamita kuwuka ndi pa makona a madigiri 10, ndipo amatenga pafupi 2 hours, monga kuwala ayenera pang'onopang'ono atengere okwera a .. Zinafika ikuchitika kwa mphindi 20.
• Chachitatu tsiku - chitunda kuti Pastukhov miyala (4600), ngati alola thanzi ndi nyengo. Kukwera wosakwiya, kwa maola 3-4, pafupi ndi miyala - kuima kwa tiyi, kenako adzatsika kwa maola 1.5-2.
• Masiku 1-2 - kapena kukwera kapena acclimatization zina. linanena bungwe kawirikawiri 2-3 Usiku pansi pa kuwala kwa nyali, kuyesa kukumana n'kukafika pamwamba.

Weather pa Elbrus zimasintha, choncho muyenera kukhala okonzeka pasadakhale, amene ali m'ma njira, mungafunike kubwerera. Mapiri simukhululukira kusasamala.

Chitunda kuchokera kumpoto

Kugonjetsedwa Elbrus anayamba kamodzi ndi kumpoto kwa izo. Mosiyana ndi omasuka mbali ya kum'mwera, ndi mahotela ake ndi chimakweza ski, pali njira yonse kupita nokha. Choyamba m'munsi kwa acclimatization ankaona kanyumba "Oleynikov" ndi "Roshchina" kapena "Camp Lakkolit".

Anatengera limayamba ndi kukwera kwa miyala Lenz (4700 m), apa akuphunzira. Chitunda lidzayamba pambuyo wathunthu acclimatization, mpumulo ndi usiku. malo wapakatikati pamwamba kulibenso. Kuchokera kumpoto zambiri adzauka kum'mawa, panasonkhana ang'onoang'ono, monga pafupi. Wolondolera odziwa zingachititse kuti gulu udachitikira kumadzulo, ngakhale n'kosavuta kuchita ndi otsetsereka kum'mwera.

Amene amakonda masewera kwambiri, nyengo ya kutsetsereka ndi snowboarding Elbrus akutsegula mu November. Reviews wa obadwa awa kwambiri chidwi. Nyengo pa nthawi ino zambiri amasangalala ndi zake ndi ofunda ndi chipale chofewa atagwa kale.

Iwo nthawi zambiri amapezeka kukwera pamwamba pa alendo ndi skiers kutsika. Elbrus ndi kupikisana pa kuwuka yachangu pamwamba. Ngwazi ya Kazakhstan ndi ake amalimbikitsa 3 H 55 min. kudula Azau (2400 m) kuti udachitikira kumadzulo (5642 m) mpaka agwidwa ndi aliyense. Kuti mudziwe kugonjetsa phiri, zimatengera zaka maphunziro ndi chidziwitso cha malamulo chitetezo.

malamulo chitetezo

Pamene anthu amabwera kwa Elbrus monga alendo, iwo ayenera anamvetsetsa kuti akulu ndi amene ali zinachitikira kukwera pamwamba, kotero kuzipeleka udindo chitetezo ayenera kukhala N'ZOSACHITA kufunsa.

Asanachoke, ngakhale acclimatization ndi lamulo:

• Chongani zida. Izo ziyenera kukhala inteja, wouma ndi kubweretsa chitetezo. Onetsetsani muyenera ndi nkhope kirimu ndi mlomo mankhwala, komanso maonekedwe kapena magalasi mdima.
• Fufuzani njira, afufuze nthawi, kulankhulana ndi thandizo zida za.
• Onetsetsani muyenera ndi thermos ya tiyi ndi chakudya kuwala - masangweji, mipiringidzo maswiti kapena zipatso.

The kukwera sikuloledwa gululi, osati malinga Utumiki wa Zochitika Emergency la Russia. Izi zimachitika chifukwa cha kufunika kutsogoza kufufuza ndi kuwapulumutsa kwawo opareshoni, ngati gulu la sanabwerere.

latsopano Elbrus

Elbrus kubwera Chaka Chatsopano (ichi ndi wozungulira kwambiri mwachangu ndemanga) - umatanthauza kuphatikiza zabwino tchuthi msonkhano wa chaka ndi luso kugonjetsa udachitikira.

Pulogalamu ya ulendo Chaka Chatsopano si kumasuka, chifukwa pamafunika zonse acclimatization pang'onopang'ono, ndipo nthawi pakati pa luso kupita ndi "amphaka" ndi amene anali mizati. The yofunika ankaimba ndi maphunziro chikwama zolondola stacking, kuyambira apamwamba likutukuka, zimakhalanso zovuta kuoneka.

N'chimodzimodzinso ndi kugwiritsa ntchito ayezi nkhwangwa, knotting ndi kuyenda mu tandem. Nthawi zambiri zimachitika kuti anthu kamodzi unachitikira molumikizana ndi chitunda pamwamba pa phiri, kukhala abwenzi moyo. Mabogi ndi lalikulu kwambiri yokonza gulu, chifukwa m'nyengo yozizira Elbrus akhoza kudabwa ndi nyengo, icing ndi mphepo.

Imachitika chiyesedwe cha luso ayezi inshuwalansi ndi Wopanda amasiya, monga gulu, kapena payekhapayekha. Anatengera ndi kupanga luso chofunika kumatenga masiku 5-6. Kugula tikiti kuphiri, adzakhululukidwa anazindikira kuti osachepera kuchuluka kwa nthawi wofunikila chitunda - masiku 8-10. Kugonjetsa Phiri Elbrus palibe maulendo mlungu. Palibe wina apereka chitsimikizo kuti ayambe adzakhala pa nyengo zonse m'dera lino ndi sizimadziwika kwambiri.

Koma ngati inu kumvera mlangizi, kuchita zonse malangizo ake, chokuchititsani mnyamata "climber" ndi kupeza mwayi, ulendo uno Chaka Chatsopano kukhala ulendo kwambiri losaiwalika ndi zodabwitsa mu moyo.