Woyamba anali ndani kukwera phiri la Everest? Mu chaka chimene kukwera phiri la Everest?

Republic of Nepal, lotchedwa malo amene Buddha, ndi dziko kwambiri lamapiri dziko. Kumpoto ndi m'mphepete mwa Wamkulu Himalaya osiyanasiyana, wotchuka nsonga angapo choposa mamita 8,000, kuphatikizapo phiri la Everest lili - pa phiri lalitali kwambiri mu dziko (8848 meters).

Everest: Ndani anapambana malo a milungu

Malinga ndi zimene ambiri amakhulupirira, malo awa ankaona malo a milungu, choncho palibe amene sichinachitikepo kwa iye kukwera.

Pamwamba pa dziko lapansi ngakhale dzina lapadera: Chomolungma ( "Amayi - mulungu wa mtendere") - mu Tibetans ndi Sagarmatha ( "The mphumi ya kumwamba") - ndi Nepalese. Everest izo anadziwika kokha mu 1856, ife samagwirizana ndi China ndi India, komanso lobadwa mwachindunji renaming - achifumu British, katswiri-kuyeza, asilikali adagulung'undisa mu umodzi - Dzhordzh Everest, amene anali wokhoza choyamba kudziwa malo enieni nsonga Himalaya, ndipo msinkhu wake. Makina akadali nthawi pali mikangano za phiri ili Asia, sayenera dzina European. Amene woyamba anagonjetsa Everest - udachitikira zimene amalota pafupifupi climber?

Kaso kukongola pamwamba pa dziko

Nature Everest ndi miyala, chisanu ndi ayezi wosatha kuopseza kwambiri ndi tacitly wokongola. Pali pafupifupi nthawi zonse chogwidwa ndi kwambiri ozizira (mpaka -60 ° C), kawirikawiri chodabwitsa - zigumukire ndi zithunzi chisanu, ndiponso mapiri paphiri kumbali zonse zokula koipa mphepo gust liwiro imene imafikira 200 Km / h. Pa okwera za 8000 meters nkuyamba "zone imfa", amatchedwa amenewa chifukwa chosowa mpweya (30% ya ndalama kupezeka pa mlingo nyanja).

Chiopsezo chifukwa cha chiyani?

Komabe ngakhale zinthu zimenezi nkhanza achilengedwe, anagonjetsa Everest anali ndi loto la mapiri ambiri padziko lonse. Imani pamwamba pa mphindi zochepa kuti apite mu mbiri, kuyang'ana pa dziko pansi pa thambo kutalika - kodi izi si chimwemwe? Pakuti ngati mphindi zosaiŵalika za okwera ndi kulolera moyo wawo. Ndi chiopsezo podziwa kuti akhoza kukhala mu mphepete unexplored wa muyaya. zinthu Human imfa zotheka, muli pali chosowa mpweya, frostbite, kuvulala, kulephera mtima, kufa pangozi ndipo ngakhale teammates zokhazokha.

Choncho, mu 1996, gulu la okwera ku Japan kwa chitunda cha Everest anakumana Indians atatu - okwera amene anali mu mkhalidwe semiconscious. Iwo anafa chifukwa Japanese analibe thandizo lililonse, "mukupanga", kanthu akudutsa. Mu 2006, 42 okwera, pamodzi ndi broadcasters muzithera «Apeza» kanthu zapita pang'onopang'ono kufa ku hypothermia England Davide atangofika, anayesanso funsani iye ndi kutenga zithunzi. Chifukwa, ndi daredevil amene anaganiza yekha kugonjetsa phiri la Everest, anafa frostbite ndi mpweya njala. Mmodzi wa okwera Russian Alexander Abramov zimenezi anzake anafotokoza kuti: "Pa okwera pa 8,000 mamita munthu amene amafuna kugonjetsa udachitikira, ali wotanganidwa kwathunthu ndipo alibe mphamvu zapadera kuthandiza zokhudza wokwera."

Kuyesa George Mallory: bwino kapena ayi?

Choncho pambuyo onse amene woyamba anagonjetsa phiri la Everest? Kutsegula George Everest, amene anali anagonjetsa phiri, anali kutsogolera kwa chilakolako mosadziletsa okwera anthu ambiri pamwamba pa dziko, kuti choyamba (mu 1921) anaganiza Dzhordzh Mellori - national Everest. Mwatsoka, koma- zinalephereka: chisanu lolemera, mphepo yamphamvu ndi kupanda zinachitikira kukweza ndi kutalika kwa climber British anasiya. Koma mumangire chimake Mallory adamkodola, ndipo anagwira awiri zinalephereka chitunda (mu 1922 ndi 1924). Pa maulendowa otsiriza Dzhordzh Mellori ndi mnzake Endryu Irvin wa gulu la mbisoweka kwathunthu. Last kudzera kusiyana m'mitambo mkuuka pamwamba pa iwo ndinawona umodzi wa anthu a ulendo Noel Odell. Patapita zaka 75, wa American kufufuza ulendo Mallory amakhalabe anapezeka pamalo okwera mamita 8155. Mogwirizana ndi dera lawo, okwera anagwa kuphompho. Komanso mabwalo maphunziro, mu kuphunzira chimodzimodzi ndi zotsalira za malo awo, izo Ena amati George Mallory - munthu woyamba kugonjetsa Everest. ndipo sanapezedwa thupi Endryu Irvina a.

zaka 1924-1938 sankawabisira gulu akadali angapo Maulendo Koma zinalephereka. Pambuyo pa Everest kwa nthawi aiwala, chifukwa ndi Nkhondo Yachiwiri ya World.

trailblazers

Amene woyamba anagonjetsa phiri la Everest? Mkuntho nepokorimuyu pamwamba anaganiza mu 1952 pa Swiss, koma kutalika pazipita M'dzikoli mumapezeka iwo anaima mozungulira okwana 8,500 mamita, mamita 348, kodi sangachitenso okwera chifukwa mavuto nyengo.

Ngati tingayerekezere kuti Mallory sakanakhoza kufika pamwamba pa phiri lalitali kwambiri mu dziko, funso la amene woyamba anagonjetsa phiri la Everest, tikhoza kunena - New Zealand Edmund Hillary mu 1953, ndipo si yekha, ndi wothandizira - Sherpa Norgay Tenzing .

Mwa njira, Sherpa (Chitibeta, "Cher" - kum'mawa, "pa" - anthu) - anthu omwewo, popanda zomwe mwina nkomwe aliyense akhoza kufika kotero kuti aziti iyeyu n'ngwabwino pamwamba. phiri ili anthu n'kukakhala ku Nepal zaka zoposa 500 zapitazo. Ndi zovuta Sherpas anakwanitsa kukwera phiri la Everest, chifukwa phiri ili - kwawo, umene uli bwino kwa njira iliyonse kuyambira ubwana kwambiri.

Sherpas - ndi wothandizira odalirika pa njira pamwamba

Sherpas - wabwino chikhalidwe kwambiri anthu amene sangathe akwiyitse kwa aliyense. Kwa iwo, kupha wa udzudzu wamba kapena mbewa munda imatengedwa tchimo lalikulu, yomwe inkafuna otmalivat kwambiri. Ife Sherpas ndi chinenero chawo, koma tsopano pafupifupi aliyense amalankhula Chingerezi. Mu ichi Kupambana kwakukulu Edmund Hillary - wogonjetsa loyamba la Everest. Amayamikira thandizo kwambiri pa ndalama zake kuti amange sukulu ku umodzi wa midzi yaikulu.

Ngakhale ndi malowedwe onse a moyo Sherpa chitukuko moyo wawo amakhalabe kwakukulukulu banjalo. midzi Traditional - ziwiri storey mwala nyumba pansi amene zambiri zopezeka ng'ombe, yaks, nkhosa, mbuzi, ndi banja lokha nthawi ili pa yosanja; pali khitchini, chipinda chogona, pabalaza. Mipando osachepera. Chifukwa cha mapiri upainiya osati kale panali magetsi; mpweya kapena mtundu wina wa Kutentha chapakati ali mpaka ayi. Monga mafuta ophikira ntchito zinyalala yaks, amene amatengedwa ndi zouma miyala.

Mumangire phiri la Everest ... amene woyamba anagonjetsa nsonga lakutali: Edmund Hillary kapena Dzhordzh Mellori? Asayansi pofufuza yankho masiku ano, komanso yankho la funso la chimene chaka anagonjetsa Everest mu 1924 kapena 1953.

Records la Everest

Everest zidapatsa munthu kuposa wina, ngakhale kulembamo anayikidwa pa chitunda yochepa pamwamba. Mwachitsanzo, mu 2004 Sherpa Pemba Dorj anabwera kwa iye kuchokera mu msasa m'munsi mu maola 10 ndi mphindi 46, koma ambiri okwera pa ntchito yomweyo akhoza kutenga masiku angapo. The yachangu phirilo mu 1988, ku France Jean-Maliko Buaven Komabe, anapanga anamunena paroplane.

Akazi amene anagonjetsa phiri la Everest, ayi wolephera amuna, ndi mwamakani ndipo mosalekeza kugonjetsa zonse chitunda mita pamwamba. Woyamba wa theka fairer a anthu mu 1975 anali Japanese Junko Tabey, masiku 10 - Phantog, Chitibeta climber.

Amene woyamba anagonjetsa Everest okalamba? Mgonjetsi wamkulu wa nsonga ndi wokhala 76 wazaka wa Nepal - Min Bahadur Sher Khan, ndipo wamng'ono - 13 wazaka American Jordan Romero. N'zochititsa chidwi kulimbikira kwa wogonjetsa wina wa "pamwamba pa dziko" - 15 wazaka Sherpa Temba Tseri, amene pofuna woyamba zinalephereka chifukwa cha kusowa mphamvu ndi frostbite manja onse. Atabwerera Tembe 5 udulidwe zala sindinasiye, iye anagonjetsa phiri la Everest kwa chitunda wake wachiwiri.

Anthu olumala komanso ndi munthu woyamba kugonjetsa Everest. Ichi ndi Mark Inglis, anakonzeka pamwamba pa dziko mu 2006 mothandizidwa ndi ziwalo. Hero ngakhale adaseleula motere naye mosiyana okwera zina, osati frostbitten zala. Ndipo mapazi frostbitten pamaso akuyesa kukwera pachimake apamwamba ku New Zealand - phiri Cook, kenako iwo yonse.

Zikuoneka Everest ali ndi mphamvu zamatsenga ngati mazana okwera nkhosa. Kugonjetsa kamodzi mobwerezabwereza anabwerera, kuyesera kuchita izo kachiwiri.

Okongola pachimake - phiri la Everest

Woyamba anali ndani kukwera phiri la Everest? N'chifukwa chiyani anthu kukopeka malowa? Zifukwa zambiri. Awakande misempha, kusowa zosangalatsa, chilakolako podziyesa kunyong'onyeka za tsiku ndi tsiku ....

Texas miliyoneya Dick Bass - munthu amene anagonjetsa Everest. Iye si climber akatswiri sanali kucheza zaka pa kukonzekera mokwanira kwa chitunda oopsa ndipo anaganiza kuti akagonjetse pachimake pa dziko mwakamodzi, monga iwo amati: pano. Bass anali okonzeka kulipira ndalama iliyonse amene amathandiza kuti kukwaniritsidwa kwa loto lake zimaoneka zovuta.

Dick Bass akadali kukwaniritsa pamwamba pa Phiri la Everest, ndi ogwira mu ulendo anali kusonkhana ndi gulu lomwe akwaniritsa miliyoneya chitonthozo Kukwera pamwamba; Anthu ananyamula katundu lonse, matenti, akasinja mpweya, madzi, chakudya. Ndiko kunena kuti, chitunda zinachitika mu "onse kuphatikiza" ndipo chinali chiyambi cha malonda kuyenda pamwamba.

Zinali kuyambira pamenepo, kuyambira 1985 kufika pamwamba akhoza kukhala aliyense amene ali kuchita ndalama zokwanira. Chibwenzi, mtengo wa kukwera wotereyo zimasiyanasiyana madola 40 kwa 85 zikwi, malingana kumbali ya phiri kukwera. Ngati ulendo zikuchitika pa gawo la Nepal, ndi okwera mtengo kwambiri chifukwa pamafunika chilolezo chapadera cha mfumu, ndalama zankhaninkhani 10 chikwi. Kuchuluka otsala linaperekedwa kwa gulu la ulendo wa.

Ndipo ngakhale anali ndi ukwati ...

Mu 2005, Mona Mulet ndi Pem Georgie ankaimba pamwamba pa ukwati dziko. Kukwera capamwamba, banjali anavula kwa mphindi zochepa za masks mpweya, kuvala makosi a garlands miyambo wachikuda. Ndiye Pem chofiira ufa odzozedwa mphumi ya mkwatibwi wake kusonyeza ukwati. Angolowa kumene m'banja machitidwe ake anali mseri aliyense: makolo, abwenzi, anzake pa ulendo, chifukwa iwo sanali wodalira ziwayendere bwino zochita anakonza.

Choncho anthu angati kukwera phiri la Everest? N'zosadabwitsa kuti tsiku, anthu oposa 4,000. Ndipo kwambiri mulingo woyenera nthawi kuti kukwera zikhalidwe wofatsa nyengo ankaona kuti kasupe ndi yophukira. N'zoona idyll izi zimatha nthawi pang'ono - basi masabata angapo, kuti okwera akuyesera kuti ntchito kuberekana kwambiri.

Malinga ndi ziwerengero za anthu amene kugonjetsa Everest afa iliyonse khumi, ndi zambiri ngozi ya kumachitika nthawi mbadwa, pamene mphamvu pafupifupi wapita. Theoretically, mukhoza kukwera phiri la Everest mu masiku pang'ono. Zochita chofunika pang'onopang'ono komanso akadakwanitsira kuphatikiza zokwera ndi halts.